Kumanani ndi katswiri wazodzikongoletsera wodzipereka kuti alimbikitse zowona za chisamaliro cha khungu pa Instagram

Kodi mudadzifunsapo kuti ndani ali ndi udindo wopanga mafomu anu zokonda zosamalira khungu? Yankho lake ndi asayansi, makamaka akatswiri amankhwala odzikongoletsera. Kupanga Chinsinsi changwiro ndi sayansi yomwe Esther Olu (aka The Melanin Chemist) ndiwokonda. Formulator kuchokera ku California adapanga otsatira pamasamba ochezera kupatsa anthu chidziwitso pa ntchito yomwe ikusintha nthawi zonse ndi debunking nthano za zosakaniza ndi zosangalatsa komanso zodziwitsa infographics. Posachedwapa tinali ndi mwayi wolankhula naye ndi kuphunzira zambiri za ntchito yosangalatsayi. Pezani tanthauzo lenileni la kukhala katswiri wa mankhwala odzola komanso chifukwa chimene Olu amakhulupirira kuti n’kofunika kuuza otsatira ake zimene akudziwa zokhudza sayansi. 

Ndiye, choyamba, zinthu zoyamba, kodi akatswiri odzola mafuta amachita chiyani? 

Cosmetologists amagwira ntchito kuti awone zomwe zingaphatikizidwe kuti apange zinthu zina. Ndimathandizira kupanga mitundu yosiyanasiyana yamankhwala, kuyambira pakusamalira khungu mpaka mtundu ndi chisamaliro cha tsitsi. Inu tchulani izo, ine ndikugwira ntchito pa izo. Nthawi zonse timabwera ndi mapangidwe osiyanasiyana pogwiritsa ntchito chemistry ndi chidziwitso chathu kuti tiwongolere ndipo pamapeto pake tipange mankhwala abwinoko.

Ndi chiyani chinakulimbikitsani kuti mukhale katswiri wamankhwala odzola mafuta? Kodi nthawi zonse mumakopeka ndi skincare ndi kukongola?

Sindinakhalepo omizidwa mu kukongola. Kunena zoona, chidwi changa pa zimenezi sichinayambe mpaka pamene ndinali ku koleji. Ndinkafunsira mtundu wa skincare, ndikungouza anthu kuti agwiritse ntchito moisturizer inayake. Kugwira ntchito ndi mtundu uwu inali nthawi yotsimikizika kwa ine. Pambuyo pake ndinayamba kukonda kwambiri kukongola. Choncho, nditatsala pang'ono kumaliza ku koleji, ndinadziwa kuti sindinkafuna kupita kusukulu ya zamankhwala, ndinkafuna kuchita zosiyana. 

Mu chemistry ya undergrad, mumachita zambiri za organic chemistry - zili ngati reverse engineering mwanjira zina - ndipo ndidakhala ndi chidwi chofuna kudziwa momwe zomwe ndimaphunzira zingagwiritsire ntchito kukongola. Nditapita ku googling, ndinaphunzira za chemistry yodzikongoletsera ndipo zina zonse ndi mbiri yakale.

Chovuta kwambiri kukhala wopanga zodzoladzola ndi chiyani?

Ndimakhumudwa ma formula anga akalephera ndipo sindimadziwa kuti vuto ndi chiyani chifukwa ndimayenera kupitiliza kupanga njira yomweyi ndikuyisintha pang'ono kuti ndidziwe chomwe chikuyambitsa vutoli. Zitha kukhala zovuta m'maganizo chifukwa ndimayamba kuganiza kuti ndikuchita cholakwika, koma zoona zake n'zakuti ndondomeko yokhayo sikugwira ntchito. Koma ndikangomvetsa kuti vuto ndi chiyani, ndimasangalala kwambiri komanso ndimamva bwino kwambiri.

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Zimatenga nthawi yayitali bwanji kupanga njira yosamalira khungu kuyambira poyambira?

Chaka chocheperako, koma zitha kutenga nthawi yayitali. Kuyambira lingaliro mpaka kukhazikitsa ndinganene chaka chimodzi mpaka ziwiri. 

Kodi nthawi zambiri mumadutsa maulendo anayi kapena asanu mpaka mutapanga njira yabwino?

Inde! Nthawi zina kwambiri chifukwa pantchito yanga yapano ndimagwira ntchito ndi makasitomala ndi ma brand. Tiyerekeze kuti mawuwa ndi abwino, koma kasitomala amayesa ndipo sakonda. Ndiyenera kubwereranso ku bolodi lojambulira ndikulisintha mosalekeza mpaka asangalale ndi zotsatira zake. Nthawi ina ndidakonzanso china chake nthawi za 20-zonse zinali zowonetsetsa kuti kasitomala akusangalala ndi ndondomekoyi. 

Ndi zinthu ziti zomwe mumakonda kuti mugwiritse ntchito?

Ndimakonda glycerin chifukwa ndi chinthu chosavuta chomwe chingagwiritsidwe ntchito pazinthu zosiyanasiyana. Sikuti ndi humectant yabwino kwambiri, komanso imapangitsa kuti Chinsinsicho chikhale chosavuta kukonzekera. Mwachitsanzo, ngati ndikuvutika kusakaniza zosakaniza, glycerin imathandiza kuti ikhale yosalala. Ndimakondanso momwe imatsitsira khungu. Ndikuganiza kuti ichi chikhoza kukhala chokonda changa chogwirira ntchito. Ndimakondanso kugwira ntchito ndi esters [mtundu wa emollient] chifukwa cha momwe amakhudzira khungu. Amakhalanso osinthasintha kwambiri: mutha kugwiritsa ntchito esters kupanga zodzoladzola ndi zosamalira khungu.

Kodi ndi malingaliro olakwika ati omwe mumawamva okhudza zodzikongoletsera kapena zopangira? 

Ndikumva ngati pankhani yosamalira khungu, anthu amaganiza kuti nthawi zonse pali yankho lolondola kapena lolakwika. Kusamalira khungu sikukhala kwakuda kapena koyera-padzakhala nthawi zonse imvi. Komabe, palibe ambiri olankhulana ndi sayansi pa intaneti kuti athetse malingaliro olakwika. Mwachizolowezi, mwachitsanzo, ndi okhudzana ndi sulfates: anthu amaganiza kuti ngati mapangidwe ali ndi sulfates, amangovula khungu kapena tsitsi. Momwemonso, ngati mugwiritsa ntchito chilichonse chokhala ndi glycolic acid, imatha kutentha khungu lanu. Chinachake chonga icho. Ichi ndichifukwa chake mapangidwe amakhala ofunikira tikamaganizira zazinthu zomwe timagwiritsa ntchito.

Kodi mumagwiritsira ntchito bwanji malo anu ochezera a pa Intaneti kuti mudziwitse anthu za chemistry yodzikongoletsera komanso kuphunzitsa anthu za malingaliro olakwika omwe amachokera?

Ndimakonda kupanga infographics. Ndikumva ngati zowonetsera zimathandiza kwambiri ndipo ndikuganiza kuti ndizosavuta kuti wina awone chithunzi kusiyana ndi malemba chifukwa adzakhala ngati, "Mukunena chiyani?" Ndimakondanso kupanga mavidiyo chifukwa ndimaganiza kuti anthu akamaona zomwe ndimachita komanso zomwe ndimakamba, zimawapangitsa kumva bwino. Kuonjezera apo, si aliyense amene angathe kuona zomwe zikuchitika kuseri kwa chemistry yodzikongoletsera chifukwa makampaniwa ndi ochepa kwambiri. Ndicho chifukwa chake ndimakonda kuwayang'ana kuchokera mkati. Ndimakonda kukhala wodziwa zambiri komanso wosavuta komanso kupangitsa anthu kuseka kuti azitenga zinthu mosavuta. 

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Post shared by Esther Olu (@themelaninchemist)

N’chifukwa chiyani kuli kofunika kwa inu kusintha nkhani zokhudza maganizo olakwikawa?

Zimafika pakuchita mantha. Ndimaganizira za mliriwu komanso mmene mantha analamulira maganizo a anthu kwa zaka ziwiri. Manthawa amapezekanso ndi zosakaniza zosamalira khungu. Zafika poti anthu amaganiza kuti chinthu chophweka ngati moisturizer chidzawapha chifukwa cha chinthu chimodzi. Kusamalira khungu kuyenera kukhala kosangalatsa. Ichi ndichifukwa chake ndikufuna kukonzanso malingaliro athu pogwiritsa ntchito sayansi, chifukwa ilipo pazifukwa. Ndikuganiza kuti kufotokoza mfundo kumathandiza anthu kusangalala ndi zinthu komanso kugwirizana nazo mosavuta.

Makampani opanga kukongola ali ndi mbiri yosaphatikiza kwambiri. Tawona kusintha m'zaka zaposachedwa kuchokera kwa ogula, okhala ndi mithunzi yosiyana siyana komanso zinthu zambiri zopangira khungu la melanated, koma kodi bizinesiyo ili ndi machitidwe otani pazapangidwe?

Ndikuganiza kuti tapita patsogolo, koma ndikumva ngati tikusowabe kanthu. Panopa ndine ndekha waku America waku America mukampani yanga yonse ndipo zinalinso chimodzimodzi pakampani yanga yapitayi. Zinali zosangalatsa kwambiri momwe gulu la Black Lives Matter lidasinthira nkhaniyo pang'ono, koma kwakanthawi. Makampani ndi makampani adanena kuti asintha ndikubweretsa anthu ambiri amitundu m'makampani, koma khalidweli likuwoneka kuti limatha miyezi ingapo kenako nkufa. Ndikumva ngati anthu akugwiritsa ntchito [Black Lives Matter] monga momwe amachitira osati chifukwa amasamala za kusintha kapena kuphatikizidwa. 

Chomwe ndimapezanso chosangalatsa ndichakuti Gen Z komanso a Millennials samamvetsetsa izi. Tikufuna kuwona kuphatikizidwa kochulukira, ndipo tikuyamba kukumana ndi otsatsa pafupipafupi, kufunsa zinthu monga "chifukwa chiyani mithunzi yamtunduwu imakhala yochepa kwambiri?" ndi zina zotero. Makampani opanga zodzikongoletsera ndi ochepa kwambiri, koma timafunikira anthu ambiri amitundu yosiyanasiyana kuti awonetsere zambiri. Tayang'anani pa sunscreen - tikudziwa kuti mineral sunscreens amakonda kusiya zotumbululuka kwambiri pakhungu lakuda. Tikufuna anthu ambiri amitundu omwe akugwira ntchito yoteteza dzuwa kuti izi zitheke. Ndiye inde, ndikumva ngati tapita patsogolo, koma tikufunika kupita patsogolo, kupita patsogolo kosasintha.

Ndi njira ziti zomwe ziyenera kuchitidwa kuti gawo la chemistry yodzikongoletsera likhale losiyanasiyana?

Pali zoletsa zambiri zomwe zimayikidwa kwa anthu amitundu ndi akazi pankhani ya STEM yonse. Ndikuganiza kuti pakufunika kufalitsa zambiri - kudzera mu maphunziro ndi makampani akuluakulu - kusonyeza kuti akuika ndalama ku STEM kwa amayi. Mwachitsanzo, Society of Cosmetic Chemists imapereka Madam C. J. Walker Scholarship kwa ochepa omwe amayimilira ochepa. Maphunzirowa samangothandiza kulipira maphunziro awo, komanso amawunikira zomwe akwaniritsa, zomwe zimapatsa olandira kulumikizana ndi makampani akuluakulu. Tikufuna zambiri za izi, ndipo ndikuganiza kuti ziyenera kuyamba ndi makampani akuluakulu. Makampani ayenera kuyikapo ndalama pofalitsa uthenga ndikudziwitsa za kufunikira kwa STEM. Kuzindikira kudzakhudzadi. 

Kwa chemistry yodzikongoletsera makamaka, ndikufuna kuwona magulu akuluakulu azodzikongoletsera akufalitsa mawu popanga makanema kuti awonetse zomwe zodzikongoletsera zimapangidwira ndikupangitsa anthu chidwi. Ena mwa anzanga amaika mavidiyo ngati awa pa malo awo ochezera a pa Intaneti ndipo anthu amawakonda kwambiri, choncho ndikuganiza kuti kukwera pa siteji yaikulu kumapangitsa anthu kulankhula. Malo ochezera a pa Intaneti amakhudza kwambiri miyoyo yathu, kotero ngati anthu ambiri omwe ali ndi zodzoladzola zodzikongoletsera amagwiritsa ntchito ngati njira yophunzitsira ndi kuzindikira, zidzachititsa kuti anthu aziyankhula ndi kupanga chidwi pamunda.  

Kodi mungapatse upangiri wanji kwa munthu amene akufuna kuchita ntchito yodzikongoletsa?

Khalani omasuka kuphunzira nthawi zonse chifukwa sayansi ikusintha nthawi zonse. Pali magawo ambiri opangira zodzikongoletsera, kuphatikiza zodzitetezera ku dzuwa, zodzoladzola komanso zosamalira khungu, ndiye ndinganene kuti musamangokhalira limodzi chifukwa mutha kuphunzira zambiri. Chofunika koposa, musaope kulephera chifukwa nthawi ina mudzalephera ndi formula. Kulimbikira ndikofunika. Ndikuganiza kuti kulephera ndi chinthu chabwino kwambiri kuti muphunzirepo ndipo ndizopindulitsa kuposa chilichonse mukaphunzira kuchokera kulephera.

Ndi zinthu ziti zokongola zomwe mumakonda nthawi zonse?

Zomwe ndimakonda kwambiri pakusamalira khungu pakali pano ndi Sachi Skin Ursolic Acid & Retinal Overnight Reform. Ndizokwera mtengo kwambiri koma zimandithandiza ndi ziphuphu zanga ndipo ndikuganiza kuti ndizofunika. 

Kodi mumakonda kukongola kotani pakadali pano?

Ndimakonda kuti makampaniwa akuyang'ana kwambiri kukonza mipanda. Ndikuganiza kuti chaka chatha anthu akhala akudziwa bwino za chisamaliro cha khungu, koma sankadziwa kwenikweni zomwe akuchita. Anthu ambiri ayesa kutulutsa, koma nthawi zina mochuluka kwambiri ndipo pamapeto pake amasokoneza zotchinga pakhungu lawo. Tsopano, akatswiri ambiri akupita pa intaneti kuti akambirane za kufunika kwa zotchinga khungu ndikuwonetsa anthu momwe angasamalire khungu lawo-mwachitsanzo, osagwiritsa ntchito zinthu zambiri zogwira ntchito nthawi imodzi. Kotero ine ndikuganiza izo nzabwino kwambiri.

Mukuyembekezera chiyani mu 2022?

Ndili ndi chidwi kuwona komwe malo osamalira khungu akulowera chifukwa skincare ya microbiome inenedweratu kuti idzakhala njira yayikulu. Ndine wokonzekanso kuphunzira zambiri pa ntchito yanga.