Derm DMs: Ndi Ma Acid Angati Osamalira Khungu Ndiyenera Kugwiritsa Ntchito Panjira Yanga?

Acids alowa m'gulu lililonse losamalira khungu. Pakali pano pa dressing table yanga pali cleanser, toner, essence, serum ndi mapepala exfoliating onse ali ndi mtundu wina wa hydroxy acid (i.e. AHA kapena BHA). Zosakanizazi zimakhala zogwira mtima ndipo zimapereka phindu lalikulu pakhungu, koma zingayambitsenso kuuma ndi kupsa mtima ngati zimagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri kapena molakwika. Pamene kuli kokopa kufuna kusunga pa mitundu yonse ya zakudya kuti lili ndi asidi (ndipo momveka bwino ndikudziwa izi kuchokera pazochitikira) simukufuna kuchita mopambanitsa.

Ndalankhula naye posachedwa Dr. Patricia Wexler, dokotala wapakhungu wovomerezedwa ndi board ku New York City, kuti adziwe kuchuluka kwa mankhwala ochotsa khungu omwe mungagwiritse ntchito pamankhwala amodzi. Werengani malangizo ake akatswiri. 

Kodi ndingasanjike zinthu zomwe zili ndi ma asidi?

Palibe yankho inde kapena ayi apa; Kuchuluka kwa exfoliation yomwe khungu lanu lingathe kulekerera zimadalira zinthu zingapo. Choyamba, ndi mtundu wa khungu lanu, akutero Dr. Wexler. Khungu lokhala ndi ziphuphu, lamafuta nthawi zambiri limalekerera ma asidi kuposa khungu louma kapena lovuta. Komabe, Dr. Wexler ananena kuti “ma asidi ayenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito moyenerera” mosasamala kanthu za mtundu wa khungu lanu. 

Zina zomwe zingakhudze kulolera kwanu ndi izi: kuchuluka kwa asidi omwe mumagwiritsa ntchito komanso ngati mumagwiritsa ntchito chotchinga cholimbitsa chotchinga. "Muli ndi mafuta ofunikira pakhungu lanu omwe simukufuna kuchotsa," akutero Dr. Wexler. Kuchotsa mafuta ofunikirawa sikungoyambitsa kutaya madzi m'thupi ndipo kumasiya chotchinga cha khungu kuti chiwonongeke, koma kungayambitsenso khungu lanu kupanga sebum yochuluka kuti ibwezere. Chosakaniza chonyowa Dr. Wexler amalimbikitsa kugwiritsa ntchito pambuyo pa kutuluka ndi hyaluronic acid. Ngakhale dzina lake, chophatikizira ichi si exfoliating acid, choncho chitha kugwiritsidwa ntchito mosamala ndi AHAs ndi BHAs. 

Asidi imodzi yomwe ingagwiritsidwe ntchito tsiku ndi tsiku (makamaka kwa anthu omwe ali ndi khungu lamafuta) ndi salicylic acid (BHA). "Ndi anthu ochepa omwe amadana nazo, ndipo zimagwira ntchito bwino pakumangitsa ndi kumasula pores," akutero. Izi zitha kukhala zothandiza makamaka pakusunga khungu lanu loyera ngati mumavala chophimba kumaso pafupipafupi. 

Ngati mukufuna kugwiritsa ntchito asidi wosiyana, monga AHA, kuti mugwirizane ndi kamvekedwe kosagwirizana kapena kapangidwe kake, Dr. Wechsler amalimbikitsa kugwiritsa ntchito asidi wofatsa ndi kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala otsekemera nthawi yomweyo. Mwachitsanzo, mutha kugwiritsa ntchito choyeretsa tsiku lililonse chomwe chili ndi salicylic acid (yesani Vichy Normaderm PhytoAction Deep Cleaning Gel), kutsatiridwa ndi glycolic acid seramu (mwachitsanzo. L'Oréal Paris Derm Intensive 10% Glycolic Acid) (tsiku ndi tsiku kapena kawiri kapena katatu pa sabata, malingana ndi khungu lanu) ndiyeno perekani moisturizer monga CeraVe Moisturizing Cream. Lili ndi ceramides ndi asidi hyaluronic kuteteza chotchinga khungu. 

Momwe Mungadziwire Ngati Mukuchulukitsa-Exfoliating

Kufiyira, kuyabwa, kuyabwa, kapena kuyabwa kulikonse ndizizindikiro zakuchulukirachulukira. "Palibe chomwe mumagwiritsa ntchito chiyenera kuyambitsa mavutowa," akutero Dr. Wexler. Ngati mukukumana ndi izi, chepetsani kutulutsa khungu mpaka khungu lanu litachira ndiyeno ganiziraninso za kutulutsa kwanu komanso nkhawa zanu. Ndikofunika kulabadira khungu lanu ndikuwona momwe limakhudzira magawo ena a asidi ndi kuchuluka kwa ntchito. Nthawi zonse ndi bwino kuyamba pang'onopang'ono komanso pang'onopang'ono (i.e. kuchepa kwa ma asidi ndi kutsika kwafupipafupi kogwiritsidwa ntchito) ndikukonzekera molingana ndi zosowa za khungu lanu. Ngati mukukayika, funsani dermatologist kuti mupeze dongosolo laumwini.